Ask An Artist: Black And White Shades

My daughter and I are freestyle dancers. I usually use black and white face paints on the eyes but would like to use an eyeshadow. Could you recommend any black and white colours that are dramatic on the eyes that will stay on and give a strong bold colour.Thanks a million - Sinead

*above - Lucy from Selfridges Trafford works the dark smoky eye look by using a similar technique to the one that Jay has outlined *

I asked James from Selfridges Birmingham to answer this question...

"Use Concealer 350 as a base all over the lid - I love using this for any smoky/ dark eye look; the staying power is incredible and of course the high levels of pigment give you a great base for any powder shadow to grab on to. I love to apply this with Illamasqua Eyeshadow Brush and use a pressing action to apply the concealer to the lid.

Next, take your choice of Powder Eye Shadow - I love 'Machine' for dark, sparkly drama - but you could use 'Lestat' if you prefer a more matt finish. Alternatively, Pure Pigment in 'Android' would look amazing if you want more of a sparkly effect.

Use the same Eyeshadow Brush to press the colour on top of the Concealer.

If you do want to create a more "winged" effect, you can use the tape method as shown in the Golden Goddess video, or you can use the edge of any Illamasqua compact as a stencil.

Use Blending Brush I to soften the colour into the crease of the eye.

Next, take Pure Pigment in 'Tingle' and press onto the brow bone. I would also add a dot of this onto the centre of the lid, this will stop the eye looking too heavy and add dimension to the look.


Line the waterline with either Medium Pencil in 'Elate' for a more wide eyed look or use the Sophie pencil for a dark, intense liner.

Line bottom lashes with the Sophie pencil and smudge over with your choice of black eyeshadow [as detailed above]

For intensity and a feminine flutter, apply False Eye Lashes - I love number 21."

Francesco's Personal Appearance at BT2, Dublin 27th-29th August

Francesco Lo Cascio is a ten year veteran of the beauty industry. He began his studies at the London College of Fashion, where he studied make-up artisty. On completion of his formal training, he lent his crative skills and expertise to such various projects as the MTV Music Awards, the Academy Award nominated film Billy Elliot and as a freelance make-up artist with a client stable including Christy Turlington, Eva Herzigova, Destiny's Child, Kate Moss, Isabella Blow and the Sugababes.

Francesco's artistic talents also extends to the world of fashion, where he was worked behind the scenes at Fendi, Alexander McQueen, Alessandro Dell'Acqua and MaxMara.
Francesco has also contributed his talents to creating beauty looks for editorial features in publications such as Vogue Italia, Marie Claire (Italy), Vogue Bambini, You Magazine and Vogue Espana.

As an artist, Francesco acts as a liaison between the high fashion and consumer
worlds. His immense talent and experience enables him to understand and
exemplify all that makes Illamasqua truly unique, and his technique and
understanding of this brand trademark style make him an integral part of the team. I grabbed a quick word with him to find out a little more about him...

So Francesco, what is your favourite Illamasqua product, and why?

I love the Cream Foundation, as you can use it day or night because of the variable coverage. I buff it into the skin using the amazing Highlighter Brush.

Sealing Gel, used with the Eyebrow Brush with any coloured Powder Eye Shadow creates a great coloured mascara. Stroke the brush through the lashes to seperate and colour.

Who are your inspirations in the world of beauty/ fashion/ popular culture?



It would have to be Sophia Loren, Madonna, Gwen Stefani and Linda Evangelista. I have been very influenced by artists that I have had the pleasure of working with; Alex Box, Pat McGrath, Topolino... they are true artists.

What is your top tip?

I use the Medium Pencil in 'Sophie' thickly across the lash line. I then take some Pure Pigment in 'Fervent' and smudge all over the eye lid with the Eye Shadow Brush to create a smoky, elegant sparkling eye.

I also love to mix the Medium Pencils with Pure Pigments on the back of the hand prior to application - this creates so many new colours!

What would you say is your personal style?

I am a very minimalist make-up artist - I like to use as few products as possible to create a lot of different looks. I like products that are versatile and I love to use vibrant colours.

I have had many inquiries as how to best use the Illuminators. Can you give our readers some advice?

Yes - you can mix the Satin Primer with the Illuminator in 'Halcyon' to create dewy, glowing skin. On it's own, I would recommend smoothing the Illuminator down the cheekbones, nose and across the T zone to pick up and reflect light without making you look 'greasy'. I also especially recommend 'Fondle' [the peachy pink colour with gold particles] for black skin. It's the best!

Francesco will be making a personal appearance at the Illamasqua counter at BT2, Grafton Street in Dublin from the 27th - 29th August. To book, call +353 1 (0) 6056666 and ask for the Illamasqua counter.

Product of the Week: Daemon Powder Eye Shadow

The wearable red eye shadow...

Red eye shadow was once considered a complete no-go area for everyone but the bravest make-up artists, however if applied in a balanced way, it can look very flattering and is certainly attention grabbing! Krystle Clayton, one of our artists from the Selfridges Trafford counter tells me more:

“Red eye shadow can be used a block colour, but looks best when softened with other colours – it looks great when mixed with browns such as Powder Eye Shadow in 'Jules' or 'Faith' to create a rusty, smoky eye look.

In the past, I have found it very hard to find a true red eye shadow, but Illamasqua have hit the jackpot! 'Daemon' has great, intense colour that is very buildable – lightly press an Eye Shadow Brush into the powder for a light wash of colour and build from there or mix with Sealing Gel and use an Eye Liner Brush to create body art or a dramatic liquid line on the eyes.”

“You can see here that I have used the product not only on my eyes but down the cheekbones, too. It makes a fabulous blush!”
To read Krystle's full bio, click here. To book a make-up lesson with Krystle please call 0161 629 1187.